Ever since I discovered Montorgueil, it has been one of my warmest Paris recommendations.
The main street, Rue Montorgueil, is a charming pedestrian area. It has a vibrant atmosphere and rich history that actually dates all the way back to 1183. The street is home to several famous places, such as Le Rocher du Canale. The restaurant opened in 1804 and is well-known for its beautiful façade decorations in light blue and gold.
One of its neighbours is also a legend. Stohrer, the oldest patisserie in town, was founded in 1730 by Nicholas Stoher. He was actually the royal patissier for King Louis XV. Stohrer may also be the prettiest Parisian patisserie. It is one of very few tourist traps that I will highly recommend you to visit.
Sunday brunch, cheese, and oysters
From Rue Réaumur at its north end, Rue Montorgueil leads down to Les Halles. This was one of the biggest Parisian markets for centuries until it was demolished in the 1970s. Today, it is replaced with an underground shopping mall, partially covered by a modern, public park.
However, while meat, fish and vegetables are gone from Les Halles, the essence of Rue Montorgueil have remained the same. It is still all about food and restaurants. Locally produced, straight from the small speciality shops selling cheese, meat, vegetables, and fresh seafood from the Normandy coast. Whether you’re looking for a Sunday brunch, a spot to indulge in fine French cuisine, or simply want to soak up the ambiance of a bustling neighbourhood, you will find it here. The street has a something for every taste, and has never been more popular than it is today.
Montorgueil morning bliss
However, fame usually comes with a price. And I am a bit sad to say that what used to be one of my favourite streets, is now often way too packed with tourists. When I lived in Montorgueil in 2012, there were also a lot of people – especially in the evenings and during apéro time in the afternoon. Still, you mostly heard them speaking French and enjoing the terraces with family and friends.
During the last years, especially after Covid and the opening of the new mall Westfield Les Halles, tourism has exploded here. Now, Rue Montorgueil has become so crowded that you are likely to miss out on its authentic vibe. If you want to experience the best of it, I would recommend you to go there in the morning when it is still quite quiet. Stroll through the street, smell the freshly baked baguettes from the boulangeries. Do as the locals; sit down at a terrace with a petit café, keep your phone in your bag, and just relax.
The wonderful side streets
The good thing is that while tourists seek to the places they’ve seen on Instagram and TikTok, smaller streets around Rue Montorgueil are blooming with a local charm and audience. During the weekend evenings, go to Rue Tiquetonne to see its tiny shops and restaurants, and Rue Saint-Sauveur for its buzzling nightlife. On a weekday, have a glass of afternoon wine in Rue Léopold-Bellan, and have a trendy lunch in Rue Mandar, where locals come to get their takeaway from all corners of the world. Take a walk through the beautiful Passage du Grand Cerf, where you will find cute places to eat, art, jewellery, yarn shops and more.
I also like Rue Montmartre, which has a mix of calmness and coolness. It has some small, nice places to eat, and you can also do a bit of shopping here, for example at COS, & Other Stories, Le Petit Souk and several other French brand stores. Even though they are all popular and centrally located, I have yet to experience any high-street shopping chaos here. My last recommendation for now; every Sunday there is a farmers market in the southern part of Rue Montmartre, near Église Saint-Eustache. See, smell and taste.
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